These plans are for beds that look similar to the ones in the above picture. The only difference will be that I am not including the seating platforms in this version of the plans.
STEP 1 – Gather materials and tools
Materials List
- (14) Wood 2’ x 4’ x 8’
- (3) Corrugated Metal 2’ x 8’
- (14) Deck Screws
- (32) Structural Screws
- (93) Galvanized Roofing Screws
Optional
- Plastic Liner 2’ x 25’
- Staples
- Paint or Stain
- Wood Sealer
Tools List
- Metal Snips
- Driver
- Speed Square
Optional
- Drill & Drill Bits
- Saw (Some places will cut the wood to size for you)
- Paint Brushes, rollers, or sponges
- Staple gun
Personal Protective Equipment
- Eye Protection
- Ear Protection
- Gloves
2″ x 4″ x 8′ Dimensional Lumber
Your choice. Some people like cedar. Others use pine. Some use treated. The species doesn’t matter much as long as it is the correct size. Just be aware that if you’re purchasing from a big box store, any species of wood that is not found in the the area where the fence and decking lumber is located probably needs to be treated with a water proof sealer. Otherwise, it will probably rot within a few years.
FYI: 2″ x 4″ lumber is actually sized at 1.5″ x 3.5″. However, I will continue to reference them as 2″ x 4″s in this build.
2′ x 8′ Corrugated Roofing Panel
Light weight, but very sharp. You’ll need tin snips or a powered saw with a metal-cutting blade to work with this. Most importantly, goggles and gloves!
This metal will slice you like butter if you mishandle it. If you’re cutting with a saw, metal debris will fly everywhere and could lodge in your eye.
Coated Deck Screws
These are specially made to withstand the elements. I recommend working with something around 3″ long for this build.
Structural Screws
These are my preferred fasteners when I’m building a structure that will get a lot of load stress.
When you get to filling your bed with soil, and especially if that soil gets wet or freezes, the stress on your fasteners are going to be way too much for deck screws to handle.
While low profile beds may not have an issue… taller beds like the one we’re building here experience a significantly larger amount of lateral load stress.
Galvanized roofing screws
These fasteners are made especially for material like the corrugated metal we’re using. The washer and rubber gasket beneath the head prevents moisture from seeping into areas it shouldn’t and helps reduces wear and tear on the metal material.
STEP 2: Cut your pieces down to size
Here’s what you should end up with:
Lumber
- 2″ x 4″ x 8′ 4 pieces
- 2″ x 4″ x 45″ 8 pieces
- 2″ x 4″ x 17″ 14 pieces
Metal
- 2′ x 8′ 2 pieces
- 2′ x 4′ 2 pieces
STEP 3: Build each wall separately
LONG SIDES
SHORT SIDES
Attach all the short pieces to the long pieces. You’ll toenail deck screws to secure the frame parts.
Toenailing means you inserting the screw at a 45 degree angle.
Tips:
- OC means “On Center”. It is the measurements from center to center.
- This bed is outdoor construction, not fine woodworking. Sometimes the 2x4s move a little when you’re toenailing. That’s okay if measurements are not exact. It won’t impede the function.
- Do your best to create 90 degree square angles. The more square your angles are, the stronger the structure and the easier it will be to assemble all 4 walls together.
STEP 4: Attach metal to wooden frames using the galvanized roofing screws
Tips:
- Dry fit your pieces to the frame before attaching them. Simply place the metal sheet on top of the wood frame to check fit. It is at this point you may decide to trim the metal sheets a little smaller. Personally, I like the sheets to be slightly smaller than the frame. I like to have half the width of the wood exposed to make it easier to assemble the walls or attach a liner. So the inside of the wall should look something like this…
- Space screws 8″ – 10″ apart
- Along all surfaces of the wooden frame. So you should have screws going all across the top and bottom as well as down each vertical support.
- Screws should be driven in from the inside of the wall.
STEP 5: Assemble the walls.
Use the structural screws to fasten all 4 walls together. I like to use 2 screws per joint.
Tips:
- The walls can be pretty heavy. It can help to have a helper.
- Use a speed square to ensure your angles are 90 degrees for enhanced structural integrity.
- Assemble the walls on level ground.
STEP 6: Add lateral supports. DO NOT skip this step. It makes the difference between a beautifully square and strong frame that will last years and one that bows out by the end of the season.
All you’re doing is taking the last of your cut material and using structural screws to fasten them to the frame from the inside.
Tips:
- You’ll get stronger support if your lateral supports are attached in a way that they stand tall instead of laying flat.
- I like to attach them in line with the vertical supports. Generally, supports should be no more than 2′ apart.
- Attach the top row of lateral supports a few inches below the top of the bed. This will allow them to be hidden by the soil… OR… flush them right to the top and use them as a way to segment your bed.
OPTIONAL STEPS
Once you have the frame built, you can take some extra steps to increase it’s longevity and reduce maintenance.
Tips:
- Wood rots fastest where it comes into constant contact with soil. In particularly, wet soil. Use a plastic liner on the inside of your bed as a moisture barrier. Be sure to wrap the lateral supports, too.
- Use a stain, paint, or sealer to keep moisture from penetrating any other exposed wood. Depending on the product, you won’t have to reapply for anywhere from 3 to 10 years.
- Use a sealer on the metal to prevent rust and corrosion. Galvanized roofing sheets won’t show signs of rust or corrosion for maybe the first 3 to 5 years, typically. Then you can wipe on sealer about every 5 years or so.
Follow these tips and your wooden beds will last a lifetime.
